Lexicon of American Fashion
“America is not like a blanket – one piece of unbroken cloth, the same color, the same texture, the same size. America is more like a quilt – many patches, many pieces, many colors, many sizes, all woven and held together by a common thread.”
The Costume Institute’s In America: A Lexicon of Fashion launched this engaging exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art which presents a modern vocabulary of American fashion organized according to the principle of a patchwork quilt (thus the quote by Jesse Jackson above). Indeed, the quilt is a metaphor for the United States and its diversity. It also is a celebration of creativity and originality of American fashion designers.
The pieces of garments made by different American designers from the 1940s to the present featured in the exhibition presented in the Anna Wintour Costume Center are organized into 12 sections that explore certain emotions, namely: Nostalgia, Belonging, Delight, Joy, Wonder, Affinity, Confidence, Strength, Desire, Assurance, Comfort, and Consciousness. The individual pieces reflect various expressions of these qualities, and can be found as word-bubble headpieces above every costume.
For example Sweetness, i. e. the quality or state of being sweet (arousing agreeable or delightful emotions) is explored via a baby doll costume by Jackson Wiederhoeft (2020), which is dress of silver metallic nylon organza embroidered with dragonfly and star motifs. One can feel the dramatics of theater, music, and performance in this design, which is part of “The Music Box” collection about the loneliness and creativity of childhood as imagined through the universe of a dancer that spins inside the box.
Respect, an act of giving particular attention, is reflected by Colm Dillane, founder of the art and design collective KidSuper, who painted the portraits of his friends and followers on Instagram in shades of brown on a cotton plain weave in his spring 2022 collection.
Gentleness is presented by the designer Bill Blass who projected the quality of being gentle (gracious or kind in manner, delicate in mood, texture, or taste) on the varied scale of soft pink and white gingham silk shantung (1990s). This apron-like pink silhouette presents an idyllic image of motherhood.
Optimism (an inclination to anticipate the best possible outcome; a cheerful and hopeful temperament) is envisioned by designer Rudi Gernreich, born in Vienna, as a 1970 projection of future in which women and men could dress alike and nudity is stripped of its moral judgments. He imagined that the knit jumpsuit would enhance the wearer’s individuality.
The black synthetic-Lycra mesh dress designed by Martin Price for Giorgio Di Sant’Angelo label (1991) conveys the quality of Passion (a strong devotion to some activity, object, or concept). The figure is highlighted by creating the sense of movement around the bust and hips. This style was named “Cleopatra”.
Refuge (a means for resort to help in difficulty) as presented here on example of the brown Alpaca coat made by Yeohlee Teng, born in Malaysia, features the designer’s signature simple geometric cuts showing her interest in architecture. It also reflects the blanket-like coverings of the nomads in Mongolia and, at the same time, encapsulates Teng’s vision of clothing as shelter.
A Lexicon of Fashion is an inspiring and thought-provoking exhibition, and another stunning show made possible by the Met Costume Institute which celebrates 75th anniversary this year. Simple minimalistic half-cubes in which the garments are presented make the costumes featured here justice. Explore what stunning garments the head curator Andrew Bolton selected for this breath-taking and multi-layered show celebrating one of the core American values – the nation’s diversity.
A Lexicon of American Fashion exhibition at The Metropolitan Museum
On view through September 5, 2022.
Text by Monika Hankova